Cooking
or culinary holidays, vacations, tours in Spain:
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SHORT
BREAKS : COOKING HOLIDAYS : COOKING VACATIONS
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Cooking
in the Andalucian Sierras
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. . a taste of the Spanish good life
Finca
Buenvino is a beautiful, family-run inn known for its
stunning setting, warm welcome and superb home cooking.
As well as the main house there are also three self-catering
cottages, each beautifully equipped with two en-suite
bedrooms, bathroom, living room with wood-burning stove
and (in summer) its own private filtered swimming pool.
Finca
Buenvino is the perfect place for a break - Ryanair's
daily, direct flights from Stansted to Seville make
it an easy travel option. British Airways also has daily
flights from Gatwick, as do Iberia from Heathrow. Aer
Lingus fly twice a week from Dublin. Finca Buenvino
is only a few minutes' drive from the lovely town of
Aracena and less than an hour from Seville city centre.
The
house is set amongst 70 hectares of mixed forest, chiefly
composed of sweet Spanish chestnut trees and cork oaks.
There are also fruit orchards and olive groves on the
property. There is a small stream running through the
valley, the Arroyo Buenvino, which gives its name to
the property. Sam and Jeannie, your hosts, keep Iberian
pigs from which they make their own home-killed and
cured Jamon Serrano, as well as salchichón and
chorizo. Depending on the season they also grow most
of their own organic vegetables.
The
house is filled with an eclectic mix of furniture, paintings,
pottery and books. Bedrooms are all distinctive whether
due to hand-painted walls, oriental hangings, a bath
tub with a view, or a fireplace. The small, winter dining-room
is pine-panelled and entirely candlelit, and dinner
is taken together with fellow guests. Sometimes neighbours
come in to join our guests for dinner. Breakfast is
served between nine and eleven in the conservatory,
with its wide-ranging views over rolling countryside,
or we are happy to bring you breakfast in bed for a
small extra charge.
In
winter, log fires, afternoon teas, central heating and
cosy rooms will make you feel at home. In spring, the
valley below the house is filled with white heather,
primroses and the song of nightingales.
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“Jeannie
draws upon local ingredients like sherry, pork,
and the wild mushrooms that are found in the countryside.
Judging by the meal she served on the evening
we visited; pasta with scallops and sun-dried
tomatoes; tender Iberian black pig with wild mushrooms;
beetroot rice, and a creamcheese desert with raspberry
coulis - Jeannie is a force to be reckoned with
in the kitchen.
Sam
and Jeannie raise free-range pigs and make their
very own serrano ham, a regional specialty.
~ Cognoscenti Internet Magazine, New York
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At
Finca Buenvino, when the main tourist season comes to
an end, they like to share the intimacy of the late
Autumn, Winter or early Spring with small groups of
friends who have an interest in hands-on cooking.
The
days can be brilliantly sunny and brightly cold, for
Finca Buenvino is high in the Western Andalucian Sierras.
At other times it will pour with rain or the property
will be lost in mist. It is a time for regeneration
and for walks and hot baths and good food and drink
and pleasant conversation. It is a time to share ideas
in a warm kitchen or whilst sitting in the living room
with a big log fire blazing away and a glass of Oloroso
Sherry to hand.
You
might be harvesting the chestnuts (early November) and
having them fresh to roast on the fire before dinner
. . . they are delicious with salt and butter and a
glass of strong Jerez or Montilla wine!
Individuals
or couples are welcome to participate, and become part
of a 'new family for a few days, but the
most fun is to get a group of good friends together
to share the experience. The courses are limited to
a maximum of six cooks although non-cooking partners
are more than welcome.
Learning
that Mediterranean cooking goes beyond the well-known
French and Italian influences can be an eye-opener for
some people. Here at Finca Buenvino they sometimes use
traditional Southern Spanish recipes which are a legacy
of the Caliphate of Cordoba. North African Mahgrebi
influences can be felt in the use of spices and nuts
and the interplay between sweet and savoury. You will
learn to cook with pulses and nuts:
- Spinach
and chickpeas flavoured with Cumin
- Butter
Beans and Clams with Tomato
- Iced
Garlic and Almond Soup
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. . and more.
You
will learn to cook the hearty roasts and cocidos and
game dishes of winter, and the light cold soups of summer.
You will learn about the use of ground and roast nuts
or bread fried in olive oil for thickening stews.
Fruit
is used in savoury meat dishes such as:
- Rabbit
with Apricots, Spinach and Pinenuts
- Chicken
with Olives and Lemons
You
will cook the traditional Paella and the less
well known Black Rice, made with Squid Ink. At
Finca Buenvino they will put a new twist on the refreshing
Mediterranean milk and egg desserts:
- Cardamom
and Honey Ice cream
- Rosemary,
White Wine and Chocolate Cream
Come and share the fun!
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Every
now and then I come across a really special place,
a gem so special that I have mixed feelings about
revealing its whereabouts . . . We arrived close
to midnight, almost too tired to eat, but the
warm and spontaneous welcome revived us.
A huge fire crackled on the hearth in the drawing
room. We had a delicious leek and potato soup
with homemade breads and a selection of Spanish
farmhouse cheeses; cabrales, manchego, a creamy
melting torta wrapped in its traditional band
of lace and the famous tetilla.
In the morning, the view across the hills, thickly
wooded with sweet chestnut and cork oak, was spectacular.
Breakfast was thick unctuous home made yoghurt,
local honey and crunchy granola, dried fruit,
home made jam and Seville orange marmalade, freshly
squeezed orange juice, lots of hot toast, bacon,
and eggs from their own hens."
~ Darina Allen, The Irish Examiner
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Sample
Week
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| Day
One |
Guests
arrive at Sevilla airport in time for pick
up at 4:00 pm. (There are direct flights
from London, Madrid, Barcelona and Paris
daily and a fast rail link to Madrid with
trains hourly. The station is a short taxi
ride to the airport.). Sam will drive
you to the mountains and you will be welcomed
by Jeannie at about 5:15 pm with tea or
coffee and cakes. Time for a rest after
the journey if you wish, or stay by the
fire, or take a walk on the property. Settle
into your rooms and meet in the living room
again at 7:30 pm for pre-dinner drinks and
tapas. Well talk about the days ahead.
8:30 pm to 9:00 pm dinner is served.
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| Day
Two |
Breakfast
is served at 9:00 am, and Jeannie will meet
you at 10:00 am to discuss the recipes for
the day and to start cooking. During the
morning, lunch is cooked and you might make
a start on preparing some of the dishes
for the nights dinner. 1:00 pm relax
over pre-lunch drinks and then have lunch
at 2:00 pm. Free time for walking or siesta
until 5:00 pm. At 4:00 pm, Sam will take
anyone who wishes on a short trip around
the area returning about 5:30 pm. This can
either be sight-seeing or shopping (depending
on group vote!). Tea or coffee. At 7:00
pm pupils start cooking again and prepare
dinner. We have a glass of wine as we put
the last touches to dinner and we go in
to the table at 8:30 pm to 9:00 pm and dine
together, sampling what has been cooked
by you all!
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| Day
Three |
We
will leave immediately after breakfast to
visit a bodega in Jerez de La Frontera and
see how Sherry is made. This is a two and
a half hour trip by mini bus. We will lunch
in the seaside town of Sanlucar de Barrameda,
home of Manzanilla Sherry. Here, the fresh
seafood is justly famous and well
have lunch overlooking the mouth of the
river Guadalquivir. We return to Buenvino
and have a light supper.
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| Day
Four |
We cook again. The day is planned more or
less as Day Two
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| Day
Five |
We
breakfast half an hour earlier at 8:30 am,
and leave for Sevilla at 9:15 am. Guests
are free to take off to the shopping district,
or might prefer to visit the historic sights,
the cathedral and the Reales Alcázares
and gardens. We rendez-vous for lunch at
2:00 pm and leave the city at 5:00 pm to
return home and prepare to go out to dinner
at a local restaurant.
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Day Six |
Our
last working day in the kitchen. Similar
in structure to days Two and Four.
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| Day
Seven |
After
breakfast Sam takes clients to Seville airport
to catch their return flights. |
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7
DAYS AND 6 NIGHTS
This
is only a sample schedule and is liable
to change depending on flight times, winery
opening times, etc. It is possible that
some of the days will be changed around.
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FOR
AVAILABLE DATES AND PRICES PLEASE EMAIL
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Though
supply is increasing, luxury accommodations are
not abundant in the Sierra de Aracena. One of
the most charming and welcoming options is the
guesthouse Finca Buen Vino, an extensive property
in Los Marines, about four miles west of Aracena
on the N-433 road. It was built and is operated
by Sam and Jeannie Chesterton, who raise their
own lambs and pigs, and offer rooms and elegant
meals in a family atmosphere in the main house.
~ Christopher Clarey, New York Times Travel
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Aracena,
Andalucía and Spain
Finca
Buenvino is located just outside the beautiful town
of Aracena in Andalucia (Huelva province) in south-west
Spain, very close to Spain's border with Portugal. Due
to its location in the mountains, the climate is moderate
to cool.
The
Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche Nature Reserve
was formed in 1989 by the Andalucian Government in order
to preserve the countryside, villages and way of life
of this unique area. Hills, thickly wooded with sweet
chestnut and cork oak, give way to small groves of olives
or walnuts and orchards of apples, plums, peaches and
figs. Wild, rocky escarpments are covered in cistus
and heather. Stone-walled mule tracks meander from village
to hamlet and are perfect for walking or riding. In
Spring, the wild flowers carpet the meadows and clumps
of peonies grow in the shade of the chestnut trees.
Whitewashed
villages with cobbled streets hang from the side of
a hill or nestle in a valley. In autumn, chestnut pickers
fill their baskets in the woods, as mules stand patiently
to be loaded with sacks for the return journey to the
village.
Los
Marines is not a major tourist destination, so you can
expect a quiet and relaxing visit, and a taste of the
'real' Spain.
Finca
Buenvino is less than an hour from Seville but is located
deep in the heart of the Sierra de Aracena - a beautiful
nature reserve of hills, thickly-wooded with sweet chestnut
and cork oak, small groves of olives or walnuts, orchards
of apples, plums, peaches, figs and pears and lovely
lakes. In other words, it's idyllic. The wild rocky
escarpments are covered in cistus and heather and stone-walled
mule tracks make meandering from village to hamlet a
delight. There is a wonderful variety of wildlife and
the house itself has a stunning hill-top location overlooking
the green and blue hills of the Sierra Morena.
The
house is a much-loved family home, filled with an eclectic
mix of furniture, paintings, pottery and books. The
bedrooms are all distinctive. The conservatory enjoys
panoramic views and the two terraces are perfect for
al fresco dining.
The
pool sits on the top of a mountain and cascades into
the view. There is also a large pavilion with bar, sitting
room and a good barbecue. The swallows swoop into the
pool to drink the water as the sun sets over the hills.
Accommodation
Five
delightful rooms are reserved for guests:
- The
Pink Room:
Twin-bedded with an ensuite bathroom. The bath tub
has a spectacular view out over the tree-tops.
- The
Yellow Room:
Double-bedded (Queen-sized) with a small sitting
/ dressing room in which there is a sofa bed. There
is also a private bathroom (not ensuite).
- The
Bird Room:
Double-bedded with fireplace and spectacular view.
There's a private bathroom across the landing.
- The
Green Room / The Blue Room:
Usually let as a family suite, includes one small
double room and one single or twin bedded room.
There's a shared bathroom between the rooms.
The
drawing room, conservatory and dining room are used
by guests and owners alike. There is an excellent
GPRS signal at the main house for both Vodafone and
Telefonica users. Laptop owners with the correct card
will find a swift connection to the Internet and email.
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